The Late Shift: Tasting Oaxaca, By Night

Our journey begins in Oaxaca’s historic center, just as the night shift of food stalls starts to emerge and a whole new set of aromas begins to fill the air. Our first stop, a vendor outside one of Oaxaca’s main markets, has been serving tortas and tostadas to workers heading home since 1930. Joining the after work crowd, we’ll get a taste of their rightfully famous – and filling – creations. From there, we’ll continue to a new family-run restaurant that has already become a neighborhood staple thanks to its devotion to one of the most elemental of Oaxacan ingredients: Beans, served out of large clay pots. Here we’ll taste a sampler of their homey dishes, which respectfully riff on traditional Oaxacan cooking. Continuing our exploration, we’ll next stop by the small shop of a local woman devoted to all things cacao and chocolate, where we’ll enjoy some of her artisanal creations. As we make our way through the neighborhood, we’ll visit another iconic streetside business, this one of a family that’s been selling tortillas stuffed with chicken and mole since 1965. Now run by the family’s fourth generation, their stand has become a strategic stop for hungry workers heading for their evening shifts, hungry locals and, of course, people looking to fuel up before getting the party started.