Discovering the Culinary Soul of Old Rio

Brazil and its cuisine are a wild and sometimes baffling stew of influences and cultures – and Rio’s old city and port zone are where many of the country’s disparate elements deliciously converge. These atmospheric neighborhoods are where the Portuguese began building the city, where the enslaved Africans who were brought over to Brazil first landed, where samba was born and – most importantly – where this bustling metropolis’s multicultural identity and food culture started taking shape. On this tour we trace that history through its food, meeting the people who are keeping Brazil’s culinary traditions alive and those who are creating exciting new ones. With Rio’s history and modern rise as a backdrop, our walk works its way through the old-school eateries of this district, catching along the way some of the new food businesses helping revitalize the area and some little-known cultural treasures. As we walk through the Rio backstreets, we’ll explore how working-class communities in this part of Rio have preserved traditions, shaped national dishes, and sparked cultural movements. From feijoada and moqueca to street snacks and tropical fruit, the dishes we eat will help us understand Rio’s complex history of colonization, slavery and migration – and how everyday food keeps those stories alive. Along the way we’ll also try Portuguese-style pastries and strong coffee at Rio’s oldest café, taste the freshly-squeezed juice of an Amazonian berry at a family-run lunch spot, and sample the culinary offerings of the city’s largest open-air market, which Jewish, Syrian and now Chinese merchants have all called home. Moving through the historic district, we’ll stop by an old botequim – a typical Rio corner bar – that’s been given new life by a local culinary entrepreneur who serves up funky riffs on Brazil’s iconic pão de queijo (cheese bread), and then visit the restaurant of a young Afro-Brazilian chef who is serving up inventive versions of the classic dishes of his home state, Bahia. By the end of our tour, we will have not only gone through Rio’s old city and port zone, but will have traversed Brazil itself, having gotten a delicious taste of the country’s multicultural richness. Vegetarian friendly. Gluten-free diets can be accommodated. Alcohol sampled but can be substituted. Mostly flat, easy terrain but also some hills. Children welcome, though difficult with strollers or wheelchairs because of narrow sidewalks and busy streets. A MUST-DO tour of Rio! Our guide took us away from the tourist areas and we experienced the real Rio. Our guide was very knowledgable and super passionate about his home town, and allowed you to see the city through a completely different lens. You don't have to be a foodie, just be prepared for something different!! We have enjoyed food tours in several cities around the world but the Culinary Backstreets tour in Rio was the best! Our guide was so knowledgeable, courteous and charming. It was obvious he had excellent relationships with the owners and staff at every stop. He ordered authentic Brazilian dishes and beverages that helped us experience a unique and very local view of Brazil. After almost 6 hours we were exhausted and stuffed - what a great day. Absolutely loved the tour. Learned a lot about Rio and Brazilian history through the various culinary delights. Ate food from street vendors and opulent bakeries. Fantastic! We were even able to find some of the places again later in the week. Our guide was able to give us a great perspective on the locals and Brazilian life. I highly recommend this tour! In addition to your Culinary Backstreets guide, all food consumed on the walk – almost a dozen different edible specialties – are included in the price. Why is the Culinary Backstreets tour more expensive than some other walking tours? Our approach is different than most tour companies. Each of our culinary walks is the outcome of considerable research. We work with academics in the field and our own team of experienced professionals – both guides and local journalists. Our ongoing publishing of articles, from restaurant reviews to features about the intersection of food and culture, constantly feeds new material into the culinary walks, so they evolve and constantly improve. Though costly, we believe that this is how to create the quality experiences we strive for. We practice honest tourism and would never accept a free lunch or any sort of commission. On the contrary, we are proud to know that the money spent during the culinary walk goes to support businesses that we believe in, helping to preserve the social and cultural fabric of the cities we love so dearly. How does the payment process work? Once you have made a reservation, we require the full fee to be paid in order to complete the online booking. Our online booking system uses Stripe to process secure payments. What is your cancellation policy? 90% will be refunded if given 1 week notice prior to walk and 50% will be refunded if given 72 hours notice or more. Less than 72 hours is non-refundable. Are your walks public or private? How many people are on them? Our walks are 2-7 people and are open to the public. If you would like to do a private walk, you can book it for a supplement by selecting book entire excursion. If it is not available on booking, we may be able to arrange one for an additional fee. Please contact us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com for more information. Can I get a discount if I join more than one walk? Yes, we offer a 10% discount to those who join more than one walk. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com if you’d like to join multiple walks. Are your walks suitable for people with food allergies? This can vary based on a number of factors, including the food item in question. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com to discuss your situation before booking. Are your walks suitable for vegetarians and pescatarians? This route is suitable for vegetarians and pescatarians. Are your walks suitable for a gluten-free diet? This tour can accommodate gluten-free diets. Is alcohol served on the walks? Alcohol is served at two stops on this tour, but can be substituted. Of course! We offer a 50% discount to children ages 12 and under, and we charge $25 for children 6 and younger. Can you pick me up from my hotel? How will I return, once the tour is over? Our tour prices don’t include transportation. If you book a tour, you’re responsible for arriving to the pre-arranged meeting spot on your own. Once the tour is over, we will help you get an authorized, safe taxi to your hotel, or provide directions on public transportation, if you’re interested in that. How much food will I get to try? This is really up to you. We generally make between 9 and 12 eating stops on our walk and try to include some breaks from eating along the way. The price includes as much food as you’re open to trying. We offer a suggested portion size at each stop and you can take our recommendation if you’d like. Our walks often involve street food and sharing food. How are you dealing with health & safety on your walks? We have reinforced our commitment to safety with new guidelines to assure maximum safety of our guests on our walks in terms of social distancing and hygiene while maintaining the quality of the experience. For more details on our precautions, read here. Our routes have been altered during this period of time to ensure the safety of our guests, guides and community. Our cancellation policy is extremely flexible to deal with changes in travel plans.