Bougatsa & Beyond: Thessaloniki, Culinary Crossroads

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city, reveals itself best in its markets. In the city’s historic commercial center, covered markets, old arcades, workshops, and neighborhood gathering places still hold the traces of the many communities that shaped Thessaloniki. What can seem at first like a straightforward Greek city quickly becomes something more layered: Ottoman-era urban life, Sephardic Jewish commercial heritage, refugee foodways from Asia Minor, and flavors that connect Thessaloniki to the Balkans, Turkey, and the Caucasus. On this food tour through Thessaloniki’s historic commercial center, we trace those layers through the flakey custard pie bougatsa, syrupy pastries, olives, cheeses, pickles, street food, and the coffee rituals that still anchor daily life. The result is more than a tasting. It is a way into Thessaloniki through the foods, spaces, and small daily rituals that reveal how trade, migration, and coexistence shaped the city – and still do. Along the way, as we move through three different markets and their surrounding streets, we eat the city as it actually lives. Each stop opens another layer of the city, not just what people eat, but how neighborhoods were built, how commerce was organized, and how older histories still survive in daily life. This is not a checklist of famous dishes, but a way into Thessaloniki through the places where people still gather, trade, snack, argue, and begin their day. By the end, the city feels less like a postcard and more like something lived-in, layered, and deeply local. This tour includes meat, dairy, and gluten. Vegetarian options are available at some stops, but vegan and gluten-free diets cannot be fully accommodated. Mostly flat terrain with sidewalks, but includes a fair amount of walking through busy market streets. Wonderful food tour with a fun and engaging guide. We learned about different foods, their history and the history of Greece. Ate absolutely incredible food we would not have been able to find on our own. One of the best food tours we have ever done. Very educational! As a Chef I was able to ask detailed questions that were understood and I gained additional information. The tour was excellent and well worth the cost. I would definitely suggest this tour, it is more than entertainment. Culinary Backstreets are among my favorite tours during my travels. They are a great way to spend a few hours walking through a part of the city and sampling local foods and beverages and getting while also getting some cultural history of the area as well. I especially appreciate how the places you visit are not just for tourists, but also places locals frequent as well. Overall, highly recommended, a must-do if visiting a city in which it is offered. In addition to your Culinary Backstreets guide, all food consumed on the walk – almost a dozen different edible specialties – are included in the price. A limited selection of alcohol is served on the walks and is included in the price. Why is the Culinary Backstreets tour more expensive than some other walking tours? Our approach is different than most tour companies. Each of our culinary walks is the outcome of considerable research. We work with academics in the field and our own team of experienced professionals – both guides and local journalists. Our ongoing publishing of articles, from restaurant reviews to features about the intersection of food and culture, constantly feeds new material into the culinary walks, so they evolve and constantly improve. Though costly, we believe that this is how to create the quality experiences we strive for. We practice honest tourism and would never accept a free lunch or any sort of commission. On the contrary, we are proud to know that the money spent during the culinary walk goes to support businesses that we believe in, helping to preserve the social and cultural fabric of the cities we love so dearly. How does the payment process work? Once you have made a reservation, we require the full fee to be paid in order to complete the online booking. Our online booking system uses Stripe to process secure payments. What is your cancellation policy? 90% will be refunded if given 1 week notice prior to walk and 50% will be refunded if given 72 hours notice or more. Less than 72 hours is non-refundable. Are your walks public or private? How many people are on them? Our walks are 2-7 people and are open to the public. If you would like to do a private walk, you can book it for a supplement by selecting book entire excursion. If it is not available on booking, we may be able to arrange one for an additional fee. Please contact us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com for more information. Can I get a discount if I join more than one walk? Yes, we offer a 10% discount to those who join more than one walk. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com if you’d like to join multiple walks. Are your walks suitable for people with food allergies? This can vary based on a number of factors, including the food item in question. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com to discuss your situation before booking. This tour can accommodate participants who do not eat fish, seafood, or pork. Dairy and nut allergies can also be accommodated. Are your walks suitable for vegetarians, pescetarians and vegans? This walk can be altered for vegetarians and pescatarians, however, we do not recommend this activity for vegans. This tour cannot accommodate gluten free diets. How physically demanding is the walk? The walk goes along fairly flat terrain, broken up into almost a dozen stops. The streets and sidewalks of Thessaloniki are quite well kept but we do recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes. As we do a lot of walking over the course of the tour, be sure to wear flat, comfortable shoes. Of course! We offer a 50% discount to children ages 12 and under, and we charge $25 for children 6 and younger. Can you pick me up from my hotel? How will I return, once the tour is over? Our tour prices don’t include transportation to and from the tour. If you book a tour, you’re responsible for arriving to the pre-arranged meeting spot on your own. Once the tour is over, we will help you get an authorized, safe taxi to your hotel, or provide directions on public transportation, if you’re interested in that. How much food will I get to try? This is really up to you. We generally make between 9 and 12 eating stops on our walk and try to include some breaks from eating along the way. The price includes as much food as you’re open to trying. We offer a suggested portion size at each stop and you can take our recommendation if you’d like. Our walks often involve street food and sharing food. How are you dealing with health and safety on your walks? We have reinforced our commitment to safety with new guidelines and have altered our routes to assure the maximum safety of our guests, guides and community while maintaining the quality of the experience. For more details on our precautions, read here.