Backstreet Yanesen: A Taste of Old Tokyo

Most of Tokyo transformed after WWII, but Yanesen preserved its atmosphere — temples and cemeteries, narrow alleys, wooden townhouses, and a pace of life that feels untouched by modernization. Since the Edo period, this district has drawn visitors seeking beauty, quiet, and a good meal, and its food culture evolved in ways lost elsewhere in the city. On this tour, we’ll taste Yanesen’s edible heritage: unagi from a true specialist, sembei and wagashi from century-old sweet shops, shukurimu cream puffs from master cake maker, and cutlets, tempura, sashimi, and yakitori paired with sake on the lively shopping street. We’ll pause in retro kissaten coffee houses, stop into temples and galleries, and wander the residential backstreets that give Yanesen its intimate character. It’s a rare chance to experience Tokyo at its most nostalgic, atmospheric, and delicious. We begin with onigiri, the humble rice ball elevated to an art form, then stop for drinks in a converted bathhouse — a reminder of the public gathering spaces that once anchored neighborhood life. At a traditional unagi shop, we’ll taste the work of a master, preparing freshwater eel with expertise. The sweet tooth is spoiled here: century-old confectioners still sell sembei, wagashi, and shaved ice, while in a former miso shop, a baker has perfected shukurimu, the Japanese cream puff with French roots but local identity. We’ll sit down in a retro kissaten, one of the coffee houses where Western dining evolved into something uniquely Japanese, before strolling through the shopping street lined with food stalls offering freshly fried cutlets, tempura, yakitori, and sashimi — perfect pairings for our sake tasting. Between bites, the day winds through temples and cemeteries, art galleries and hidden alleys, where the spirit of old Tokyo lingers. It’s an indulgence in both the edible and atmospheric pleasures that define Yanesen, and an experience hard to find anywhere else in the city. This tour includes seafood, meat, dairy, and gluten. Substitutions may be possible for pescatarians and vegetarians at some stops, but cannot accommodate vegan or gluten-free diets. Alcohol is served. The route includes narrow alleyways, backstreets, and uneven terrain. Be prepared for a good amount of walking and for some eating while standing, especially at the end of the tour. In addition to your Culinary Backstreets guide, all food consumed on the walk – almost a dozen different edible specialties – are included in the price. Why is the Culinary Backstreets tour more expensive than some other walking tours? Our approach is different than most tour companies. Each of our culinary walks is the outcome of considerable research. We work with academics in the field and our own team of experienced professionals – both guides and local journalists. Our ongoing publishing of articles, from restaurant reviews to features about the intersection of food and culture, constantly feeds new material into the culinary walks, so they evolve and constantly improve. Though costly, we believe that this is how to create the quality experiences we strive for. We practice honest tourism and would never accept a free lunch or any sort of commission. On the contrary, we are proud to know that the money spent during the culinary walk goes to support businesses that we believe in, helping to preserve the social and cultural fabric of the cities we love so dearly. How does the payment process work? Once you have made a reservation, we require the full fee to be paid in order to complete the online booking. Our online booking system uses Stripe to process secure payments. What is your cancellation policy? 90% will be refunded if given 1 week notice prior to walk and 50% will be refunded if given 72 hours notice or more. Less than 72 hours is non-refundable. Are your walks public or private? How many people are on them? Our walks are 2-7 people and are open to the public. If you would like to do a private walk, you can book it for a supplement by selecting book entire excursion. If it is not available on booking, we may be able to arrange one for an additional fee. Please contact us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com for more information. Can I get a discount if I join more than one walk? Yes, we offer a 10% discount to those who join more than one walk. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com if you’d like to join multiple walks. Are your walks suitable for people with food allergies? This can vary based on a number of factors, including the food item in question. Please email us at walks@culinarybackstreets.com to discuss your situation before booking. Are your walks suitable for vegetarians and pescatarians? Our route can accommodate vegetarians and is very suitable for pescatarians. Are your walks suitable for a gluten free diet? We cannot accommodate a gluten free diet on this walk. Is alcohol served on this tour? Yes, although non-alcoholic options are available. Of course! We offer a 50% discount to children ages 12 and under, and we charge $25 for children 6 and younger. Can you pick me up from my hotel? How will I return, once the tour is over? Our tour prices don’t include transportation. If you book a tour, you’re responsible for arriving to the pre-arranged meeting spot on your own. Once the tour is over, we will help you get an authorized, safe taxi to your hotel, or provide directions on public transportation, if you’re interested in that. How much food will I get to try? This is really up to you. We generally make between 9 and 12 eating stops on our walk and try to include some breaks from eating along the way. The price includes as much food as you’re open to trying. We offer a suggested portion size at each stop and you can take our recommendation if you’d like. Our walks often involve street food and sharing food. How are you dealing with health and safety on your walks? We have reinforced our commitment to safety with new guidelines to assure maximum safety of our guests on our walks in terms of social distancing and hygiene while maintaining the quality of the experience. For more details on our precautions, read here. Our routes have been altered during this period of time to ensure the safety of our guests, guides and community. Our cancellation policy is extremely flexible to deal with changes in travel plans.